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Silk Classification Series Three Gauze & Leno Fabrics
Known for its excellent moisture absorption, skin-friendliness and soft, luxurious sheen, silk has many superior qualities. Over 6,000 years of silk culture and product development, craftsmen and technicians in the silk industry have created a wide variety of silk fabrics with diverse styles that are widely used in both apparel and home textiles.
Based on their structure, distinctive appearance, and stylistic effects, silk fabrics are generally divided into 14 main categories: spun silk, crepe, satin, tussah silk, gauze, georgette, habutai, shantung, crepe de chine, bark crepe, crepon, velour, tweed, and brocade.
Gauze fabrics are made using a special interweaving method of warp and weft yarns known as "cable organization," which creates tiny eyelets throughout or in certain areas of the material, giving it a strong sense of transparency. In addition, highly twisted warp and weft yarns are used at a lower density to create uniform, fine holes and wrinkles in the fabric. Gauze fabrics are lightweight, transparent and have an ethereal feel with good breathability. Due to the intertwining of the warp threads, the fabric structure is stable and relatively durable.
Gauze is divided into plain and patterned types depending on the use of jacquard techniques.
Plain gauzes are often raw woven, while patterned gauzes, such as ramie gauze and Lushan gauze, are more refined. Some use a complex weft structure with multiple groups of colored weft threads to achieve a rich visual effect, such as Summer Night Gauze.
The main varieties are Qiaoqi gauze, Xiangyun gauze, Lushan gauze and summer night gauze.
Qiaoqi gauze
Xiangyun gauze
These are used for women's formal dresses, skirts and theatrical costumes.
Woven with natural silk to create patterns, then dyed to enhance the designs. Typically, silk is used for the warp and artificial silk for the weft, resulting in two different shades after dyeing due to their different dye absorption. Classic varieties such as "Liu Xiang crepe" and "Jin Yu satin" are examples. Raw weaving is generally used in the context of jacquard weaving, although plain fabrics are usually made from natural silk.
Jin Yu satin
The silk is partially degummed and dyed before being woven according to a design pattern. This method emphasizes patterns through color, as seen in traditional varieties such as "woven brocade satin" and "ancient scent satin.
Leno fabrics are made with twisted silk threads for both warp and weft, creating a twisted warp fabric. The surface has regular striped eyelets, with horizontally striped eyelets known as transverse leno and vertically striped eyelets known as direct leno. The surface of the fabric is smooth and even, with a close and fine structure, soft and comfortable to wear, with a crisp drape, clear eyelets and good breathability.
The main varieties are hang leno and patterned leno.
