Silk Classification Series Fifth GE & Crepe

Silk Classification Series Fifth GE & Crepe

Silk has a 6000-year history and has developed into a diverse range of styles. It is widely used in clothing and home textiles due to its excellent moisture absorption, skin-friendly nature, and soft, luxurious sheen.

Silk fabrics are classified into 14 categories based on their structure, appearance, and stylistic effects, including yarn, plain silk, satin, raw silk, gauze, crepe, crêpe, brocade, twill, crêpe, georgette, fleece, wool, and damask.

Ge Fabric:

It is characterized by a plain, heavy plain, or steep twill weave, with fine warp threads and coarse weft threads. It is characterized by a plain, heavy plain, or steep twill weave, with fine warp threads and coarse weft threads. This creates prominent horizontal ridges.

Main Varieties: Special Ge, Zhidi Ge.

Applications: Ge fabric is robust and durable, suitable for spring, autumn, and winter clothing, as well as decorative silk materials.

Special Ge: This fabric is a pure silk weave with satin flowers on a plain weave base. Typically, it uses double raw silk threads for the warp and four raw silk threads twisted together for the weft. The fabric is smooth, soft, sturdy, and durable, with quaint and beautiful satin flowers on a plain background.

Zhidi Ge: Belonging to the interwoven silk category, Zhidi Ge is a jacquard silk fabric with a plain weave variation as its base. The warp consists of dyed mature silk, while the weft is made of rayon silk, woven in a pattern of alternating thick and thin threads. This, combined with the jacquard backing, gives the fabric an irregular fine striped pattern and a unique crumpled floral appearance, resulting in a firm and dense texture.

Crepe

Crepe fabrics are made using tightly twisted yarns as weft or both warp and weft, woven in plain or crepe weave. The resulting fabric has a distinctive crinkled appearance after weaving and dyeing.

Characteristics

Crepe fabrics are known for their soft sheen, comfortable and elastic texture, and good wrinkle resistance. Various crinkle effects are achieved through different weaving structures and processing techniques.

Types of Crepe Fabrics

Light, cicada-wing-like Georgette Crepe (thin)

Medium types like Double Crepe, Floral Crepe, Bi Crepe, Xiangge Crep

                                             Double Crepe                                                                     Xiangge Crepe

Thicker types like Forged-back Crepe, Xiangge Crepe, Oak Silk Crepe

Crepe Formation Techniques

Using yarns with different twists and directions, releasing the twist-induced torque during refining, resulting in shrinkage and twist to create a 3D spiral distribution.

Utilizing differences in warp and weft tension.

Weaving with crepe structure.

Post-weave crimping treatments.

Exploiting differences in thermal shrinkage properties of the raw materials.

Main Varieties

The primary varieties include lightweight Georgette Crepe, medium Double Crepe, Floral Crepe, Bi Crepe, and thicker types like Forged-back Crepe and Xiangge Crepe.

Applications

Crepe is used for various clothing materials and silk scarves.